I don't know what to make of Jonathan Safran Foer's
article on meat. Here's a summary: Blah blah my Jewish grandmother's chicken college I got married I don't eat meat, statistics, the end. Well, I got news for him. Meat is good. A child's garden of meat:
When I was six years old, we had a deep freezer in the basement. One day, by way of putting the freezer to use, my father purchased half a cow. The half a cow came disassembled and wrapped. The wrappers were labeled "brisket," "top round" and other things. My mother was horrified. "Let's go down to the freezer and get some of that half a cow," we'd say, and she would look unhappy. When I found a package that said "rump," my parents did not hear the end of it for a year.
Our meat grinders were hand-cranked. I liked the big one--it looked like a
hair dryer made out of plumbing. You clamped it to the counter top, inserted a gigantic spiral-shaped grinding screw that weighed about three pounds, slipped the cutting blade over the screw head and the extruder (a steel disc with holes punched in it) over that, and then you screwed the retaining ring over the entire assembly to hold it together. Finally you attached the crank.
Diabolus ex machina. We were fussy about the steak. It had to be uniform in color and not too deep a red. You rinsed the steak (top round, preferably) and dried it and cut it into strips, and you turned the crank and fed the steak into the grinder, strip by strip. We always had capers on hand so we could sneak some steak tartare on crackers.
To prepare the grinder for cleaning, you fed a piece of bread through it. This removed all the stringy parts of the meat and gathered them at the front, where they formed a sort of bread-and sinew doughnut. We didn't eat that.
As to the poor helpless animals, fuck them. They're animals! Treat them kindly, slaughter them quickly and neatly and your moral obligation is discharged. If you get crazy about that, what's more sadistic than fishing? Or crabbing? Life in Washington, D.C. without
blue crabs? Are you serious? In those days, a bushel of blue crabs was a dollar. The bushel basket emitted bubbling sounds. I would open the lid and stare into the basket. The crabs would stare back. Once I poked my finger in and a big sook pinched me. A great white pot was on the stove to cook the crabs. The water was boiling. I pointed to the crab that had bitten me.
"Him first," I said.
He tasted good, too, the little bastard. Crabs have had a lot of revenge for this over the ages. One way to look for a dead body in the Chesapeake is to look for a big bunch of crabs. It is all part of the circle of life, son. And your Jewish grandmother's too.